March 24-25, 2011 Kanyakumari, Tamil Nadu, India

We left Kovalam and headed south, to the southern most tip of Continental India, to Kanyakumari, where 3 oceans meet, the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Indian Ocean. It is a very sacred place, where pilgrims flock by the tens of thousands to visit the Vivekananda Memorial and the Bhagavathi Amman Temple.

We also took a side trip a few klicks away to the Suchindram Thanumalayan Temple. This was one of my favorite temples, being extremely old and they were very nice to me, giving me the full "treatment" of a VIP. There are many rituals that are performed in a specific order and you need someone with you that knows them or get someone to help you. Of course you have to tip well, but I wanted the full treatment, to be immersed in it. We were escorted into the inner sanctum, which was a treat.

We also visited the Vivekananda Kendra or the ashram of Swami Vivekananda. There is a nice museum that shows a great timeline of his influential work. There is also a Memorial to Mahatma Gandhi, but I was very disappointed with that and thought it was lacking in anything substantial. It it situated on the spot where his ashes rested before being scattered into the sea a few yards away.

The view from our hotel room looking east.

Vivekananda Memorial

The Vivekananda Memorial is supposed to be built on a rock that he swam to to meditate. This is said to be the actual rock. The memorial was built on a much larger rock outcrop for obvious reasons. These rocky outcrops are a few hundred meters off shore.

Looking due South across the India Ocean

This is the Suchindram Thanumalayan Temple.

Dusk, looking out from our Hotel across Kanyakumari.

We got up early as usual the next morning to go to temple, about 4:30. No cameras allowed, so no pictures. We got back to the hotel and went to the roof to watch the sunrise as we have been doing, but found we were not alone. All over Kanyakumari, on top of most hotels there were hundreds of people who had the same idea.

Looking out towards the Vivekananda Memorial from our hotel roof.

Sunrise, March 25 looking South across the India Ocean.

Sunrise, March 25 looking South across the India Ocean.

March 23, 2011 Kovalam, Kerala, India

We left early today to see the Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala. We had done some research and know that I might have to wear a dhoti and take off my shirt when entering the temple, but to our utter disappointment, I was not allowed in at all, since I was not an Indian National. This is something new sweeping India, let's just hope it doesn't get a foothold or hundreds of places most of will never be able to see.

We left there and decided to see something for our trip away from the beach resort so we ended up at the Napier Museum and Gardens. Nice gardens with lots of trees. The museum holds lots of artifacts. Be forewarned... if you like to take pictures. Some of these places don't allow pictures inside or out, some just inside. Most have started to charge one price to take pictures, and another for using a camcorder. And of course, non Indian Nationals pay more for entry fees, sometimes a lot more. But, with that in mind, there is so much to see.

We left Trivandrum and headed back. We then went into the little fishing village of Vizhinjam. Our travel book had an obscure reference to an ancient temple, that was out of the way and not very traveled. We eventually found it, although it was closed. Temples in India close for part of the day to prepare for afternoon activities. We met some friends along the way in the form of curious school boys who were very friendly.


We went down to the fishing village for a while and then over to the Vizhinjam Juma Masjid Mosque to look at its architecture. After that we had a look from the base of the light house looking over to both the Mosque and Kovalam Beach.

The Sree Padmanabhaswamy Temple in Trivandrum.

Entrepreneurs everywhere. Here selling dhotis to those who might not have brought theirs.

Simple point and shoot cameras just can not capture the real

beauty of centuries old artwork and architecture.

A gardener trimming the hedges at the grounds around the

 Napier Museum.

I snuck this picture of the Museum itself.

The Napier Museum

The fishing village of Vizhinjam.

Some of our new friends.

Very old sculpture of Nandi, outside of the hidden temple.

Looking back at the village from the breakwater

Outside of the Vizhinjam Juma Masjid Mosque

Looking at Kovalam Beach from the base of the Light House.

Looking back at the Vizhinjam Juma Masjid from the base of 

Light House

Night time on the boardwalk, Kovalam Beach. Good restaurants!

March 22, 2011 Kovalam, Kerala, India

On this day we headed down to a little beach resort. This was actually situated on the Arabian Sea. We passed through Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala. We will take a side trip there before we leave.

Kovalam, while being a popular beach for many years for Europeans, has a quaint little "village" feel and is starting to come of age. There are a couple of high-priced hotels now and it gets real crowded during the tourist season. Luckily we were there right after, so it was quiet but not dead.

There are nice beaches to walk on, waves crashing on rocks, a boardwalk with restaurants and bars and lots of shopping. There is Light House on top of the point which gives you a great view of Kovalum and the Vizhinjam Fishing Village on the other side.



The view from our hotel room!





You can lounge on the beach next to the fishing boats that are used early every morning.

  


Coconut trees everywhere!

 


And of course beautiful sunsets here don't disappoint





The days catch ready for you to pick and cooked for you. The prawns were awesome!

  More to come along with our trip to Trivandrum!

March 21, 2011 Kumarakom, Kerala, India

We got up early this morning to take our usual walk. Everything was so quiet. Then the birds started in. Wonderful sounds from every direction! We walked down the main road and had some chai from the lonely chai walla and his little stall. We were able to get a glimpse of the Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, I know, quite a mouthful, but quite stunning.

Later in the day we took a boat ride through the backwaters and stopped off at a small little waterway food stand. We had wonderful fresh spiced fish with red onions and coconut.

After that I watched as the coconut walla came in and harvested all the ripe coconuts from the hotel grounds.


Sunrise over the backwaters




Clam boat




Roadside chai...you gotta have your morning chai!




Coconut walla getting the ripest ones




Some of the local boys taking a swim in the lake




One the boat ride through the backwaters




The view as we left the hotel




Hunting for the days clam haul




The little "roadside" diner




Fried spiced fish with onion, caught that morning, and served on a banana leaf...yum!





Local fishermen bringing in the catch



































































































































































































































































































What a wonderful laid back place. I highly recommend this area.

March 20, 2011 Kumarakom, Kerala, India

We left Munnar and headed toward the coast. We arrived late in the day, near sunset actually. My wife had found this place and had kept it a surprise. She made me close my eyes as we made our way through the compound. Quite exciting!

The reveal was spectacular! We were right on the water, along one of the many famous backwaters in this part of the country. Most people here live on or near the water and trade and commerce commence daily. This is a must see area. This was on Lake Vembanadu.

Floating rattan boats fill the lake. This is what we are doing next time!

My view off my veranda...not too shabby!

Relaxing on our veranda. This small resort is privately owned and very nice. The owner was very friendly.

Looking South down Lake Vembanadu

Looking North up Lake Vembanadu

India has the best sunsets! Just wait! There are some doozies coming!

Fishing as they have done for thousands of years. Simple and effective.

This is actually early the next morning. We got up almost every day predawn and took a walk and watched the world wake up. Quiet and very relaxing.

March 19, 2011 Munnar, Kerala, India

We stayed in Munnar, or I should say just outside Munnar in a little village about 5k away. The house was provided for us by a very nice man in Kochi who owns a travel business there.

The area has a lot to see so small day trips can keep you busy. We visited a Tea factory, drove to a place called Top Station, elevation 8000 ft and over the border into Tamil Nadu. This area is known not only for its tea, but for tons of other spices and herbs that grow here, some only grown here at this altitude, like cardamom. They also grow coffee here.



Our house outside of Munnar




Dahs, our cook and housekeeper




One of the neighborhood boys and his dog




Sunset from the roof.




Sunrise from the roof





Kolam is a form of sandpainting that is drawn using rice powder by female members of the family in front of their home. Kolams are thought to bestow prosperity to homes. It is widely practiced by Hindus in South India. A Kolam is a geometrical line drawing composed of curved loops, drawn around a grid pattern of dots.

Every morning in southern India, millions of women draw kolams on the ground with white rice powder. Through the day, the drawings get walked on, rained out, or blown around in the wind; new ones are made the next day. Every morning before sunrise, the floor is cleaned with water, the universal purifier, and the muddy floor is swept well for an even surface. The kolams are generally drawn while the surface is still damp so that it is held better. I will be showing more examples of this artform later in the blog.





Downtown Munnar



Elephant rides



Near Top Station. Even here, tea grows.

Tea fields, 7500ft.

Lake Matupatti



Flowers at the top of Top Station, 8000ft.



The lake at Mattupatti Dam under the massive Eucalyptus trees



Clove



Stokin' the fires at the Tea Factory